Today I woke at 6am and boy, did I feel energised. The forecast was for over 30, so I jumped out of bed and went straight to Wardog. He was all packed up in a short amount of time, strapped to my car and just waiting for me to get ready for work. We had a date this evening.
Work dragged on for so long I went close to insanity waiting for when I could go out with my man. Every break I got I checked the forecast website to make sure everything still looked to be on track.
Why was today special you wonder? The wind was going to die down and after much river paddle preparation, I was ready to tackle some very small swell and start working on my footwork.
You cannot catch a wave, properly, without knowing how to work with your board. I have learnt this the hard way. I was trying to run marathons before I could stand. I have caught waves previously, but I do not know how or why, and certainly not what to do once I was on one.
End of the day I hurry over to the beach. We paddle for over an hour, just going distance and making sure that I can balance with surf from any direction, and not getting tired. Then I make my way to a really pretty spot where there is no weed or rocks below that I could hurt myself on. I want to go from my feet astride the board to side on, to ride the wave. I prepare mentally. I hold my paddle tight. I work my muscles. And I take a step. Step. Step. Fall.
Next time I try to smoothly jump from feet astride to side on. I jump. Fall.
This went on for another hour, but slowly, I stopped falling and started landing. I gained control on the side. I became competent.
There was not enough swell to catch even a small wave today but I still felt I had won. In between all that falling and paddling and balancing, I learned a new skill with Wardog.